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Head or shoulder scarf, Sumatra, Aceh?

The Wuppertal textiles from what is now Indonesia came from Eduard von der Heydt, who gave them to the Städtisches Museum Wuppertal in 1937. The museum bought them from the art dealer Carel van Lier in Amsterdam. They were originally part of the curated collection of the German-Jewish banker Georg Tillmann, who lived in Amsterdam from 1932. Of the original 80 textiles, 68 have survived to this day, including fabrics from the islands of Java, Sumatra, Timor, Borneo and Bali in ikat, songket or batik techniques. Most of the pieces were created in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when what is now Indonesia was under Dutch colonial rule. Former object number W 13. The head or shoulder cloth shows clear European influences, which is unusual for the Aceh region, where animal illustrations and Latin letters were rarely used due to strict Islam. The origin of this mysterious shawl could date back to Aceh's independent period, when the sultanate may have been seeking rapprochement with European powers. Woven brocade fabric with a dark purple, plain-weave silk ground and continuous (lanced) and partial (brocaded) weft patterning. Double-threaded pattern weft made of gilded metal threads (metal lane around thread core) after each ground weft. Weave with selvedges on both sides and hand-finished top and bottom edges with appliquéd crochet lace (approx. 3.5 cm), also made of metallic thread.

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Cataloguing data

Object type
Textilien
Dimensions
Height: 219 cm
Width: 595 mm
Weight: 362 g
Material/Technique
Metal, Silk, Weaving art, Silk, metal threads
Object genre
Non-European art
Current location
Von der Heydt-Museum
Inventory number
A 2024/37

Provenance and sources

when
1900
where
Sumatra
who
Not clarified
when
probably after 1932 - probably June 1935
where
Amsterdam
who
Tillmann, Georg - Former Possessors
when
probably June 1935
where
Amsterdam
who
Description
on commission from Georg Tillmann at Carel van Lier
when
June 1935 - 1964
who
Heydt, Eduard von der - Depositors
Von der Heydt-Museum - Borrowers
when
1964
where
Ascona
who
Provenance
presumably after 1932-presumably June 1935: Georg Tillmann (1882-1941), Amsterdam | [...]-presumably June 1935: Kunstzaal Van Lier by Carel van Lier, Amsterdam. June 1935: Kunstzaal Van Lier by Carel van Lier, Amsterdam; on commission from the aforementioned | June 1935-1964: Eduard Freiherr von der Heydt (1882-1964), Ascona [on loan to the Städtisches Museum Wuppertal, since spring 1937] | 1964-today: Von der Heydt-Museum Wuppertal; donation by Eduard Freiherr von der Heydt, Ascona (as at: 03.04.2025)

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